Do Boardgames Dream of Miniature Porn?
  • I'm thinking of taking the plunge and buying the Dark Imperium set for a Christmas treat and taking the holidays to paint the miniatures and learn to play. I've watched some painting vids and the death guard look pretty hard but I quite like the challenge. I'm struggling to figure out what the best way to buy paints and accessories would be, all guides seem to use a massive amounts of paints.

    Any advice on what to buy, I'm looking for a one job lot to get up and running? Are contrast paints the way to go, are there any paint sets to buy?
  • *cracks knuckles* 

    Aight. first off make sure you're buying into a system and miniatures that you actually want. 40k is a bit wonky these days, but still pretty fun. AoS is the better game, IMO, andhas a more promising future in its minis, but if you like the current crop of 40k factions, they aren't going anywhere.

    If you want to paint minis, you need to invest - that's the sad truth. I have built up quite a colelction of paints and brushes over the last three years, but I did it bit by bit rather than all in one go.

    First off you need to identify how you want to paint them - if you have a scheme in mind from something you've seen online, post it here. If not, try and get examples of other minis.

    The best thing to do is to identify the compontents of a mini for your scheme.

    I still have a picture of my first DG lads online so here they are

    MFuHVDA.jpg

    So your main things are: Armour, Trim, Flesh, Metal, Bones, Boils, Lenses.

    Most components you'll want to do the bare minimum of base > shade > layer, so you're looking at 2-3 colours per component. You can soften steps by using the right undercaot, or by using contrast. My DG are undercoated in a spray coat of Death Guard Green - so that's the trim done. Then I wash the whole mini with athonian camoshade, and layer on Rakarth Flesh for the armour, and highlight with Nurgling green for the trim and Pallid Wych Flesh for the armour - maybe depening the shade again if I need to.

    But certain shades might be usful elsewhere - I could do a very similar scheme with Agrax Eathsade for example, and at the same time i'd be able to shade the whole mini cos it's a nice neutral shade that goes over bone, metal, and various armour colours very well.

    Contrast can be super useful because it combines base and shade into one coat essentially, but it really depends on how you're using it. You also need a white or offwhite primer (i'd recommended GWs Wraithbone or Grey Seer as they're abotu 100x better than any white primer) or at the very least a basecoat that works with the Contrast paint you're using. For example, my current method for painting horns and bone is to basecoat with Zandri Dust - a nice mustard yellow - and then use skeleton horde contrast over the top for shading and saturating, before layering Ushabti Bone over. If I had sprayed the whole mini in Wraithbone, I'd skip the Zandri Dust part as Skeleton Horde is already quite saturated so it works easily over paler colours.

    if you keep the Base > Shade > Layer Method in mind and plan out your colours, you should find you're looking at maybe 14-15 paints for a model - which then equats to 13-15 paints for an army, given the natural overlap, plus a primer spray (black is the best, but depending on your scheme you might get away with one like Blue or Green, or a Contrast primer if you want to use Contrast)

    For brushes, get yourself a Medium Shade Brush, as it is the MVP for shades and contrast paints, a Small Layer for small areas and highlights, and a Medium Layer or Medium Base brush for larger areas on infantry, maybe a Large base for vehicle stuff.

    Investigate making a wet pallette online, it takes seconds and saves you masses of time and paint - doesn't work with contrast though. Remember that Contrast and regular painting is totally compatible as contrast is just a tool, not a method. I used both on my Ghrogons and I doubt you could guess which parts were contrast and which weren't.

    [img]ZZpAAxI.jpg

    If this is jumbled or you have more Warhammer questions, don't hestiate to let me know. I can send you three Plague Marines for free if you want, I have a duplciate set of those at the start of my post - just sling me a PM.
  • Are there any issues with using a 'normal' paint over a contrast primer?
  • Nope. The primers you use for contrast are formulated to work well with contrast, they’re more satin than matte, but really they’re just off white which means the texture is better than white which often bery grainy
  • Thanks Tempy, that's a lot of info. I want to go 40k because I love the setting and space marines are brilliant and I'm more interested in the models then the game really but I do want to play with my son. That's why I thought Dark Imperium seemed like a good place to start as the value seemed pretty good. There's just so much information out there though so it's hard to figure out where to begin, I might go to games workshop next week but I don't want to end up buying loads of stuff I don't need. Maybe trying to get everything at once is a bit too much.
  • It definitely is. PM your address and i’ll send you some models stuff over, that way you can start with some paints and tackle something like DI later when you’ve got a plan under your belt.
  • Brilliant thanks. I do want to try and play the game over the Christmas period though, I did look at first strike but it doesn't look like you get much game in it. Is there a good starter set to get two people playing?
  • Highly recmmond Know No Fear - slots right in between First Strike and Dark Imperium, would hoenstly say it's the best of the 3 (doesn't come with the lovely hardback 40k book though)

    https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/40k-know-no-fear-2017-ENG

    60010199017_KnowNoFearENG01.jpg
  • @n0face I dunno if GW still do it but back in the day you could go into a GW store and tell the staff there you were thinking if getting into a game but weren't sure what it's like and they'd run you through a very quick game of 40k or AoS if they weren't super busy.
    "Let me tell you, when yung Rouj had his Senna and Mansell Scalextric, Frank was the goddamn Professor X of F1."
  • Good idea, I'm going on this week so I'll ask.
  • EPZcggs.jpg

    Hobby moment - my first time using a proper airbrush setup to undercoat. It's not as straight forward as you'd think, so I'm glad I started with something simple.
  • Desperately want an Airbrush, gonna be a good few years though.
  • I'm not sure if it's the vallejo primer, or the airbrush, but the texture on the miniatures is insanely smooth. I'm really impressed.

    I'm scared shitless to break the tip, or at least totally gunk it up (I had a lot of 'tip dry', which I think is normal when priming). Hopefully as time goes on I'll get more confident.
  • Questor
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    Highly recommend using Vallejo Flow Improver to stop dry tip (so many jokes to be made there but I won't....!) I put 2-3 drops of that in to pretty much anything I am airbrushing.
    Also bear in mind anything that has any white in it is super prone to drying  quickly so DEFINITELY use flow improver there.
  • Fair enough - I was avoiding it with the primer and just adding water. I'll have a blast with the airbrush thinner and/or flow improver tonight.
  • I popped into my local independent game shop for a browse and got chatting with the owner about painting. I ended up walking out with 4 paints a shade 2 brushes and 5 free space marines. After blobbing paint on and making a couple of horrors over the last week here's my 4th attempt

    gh5ScjX.jpg
    VW4i4Dq.jpg

    It looks better in person, honest.
  • Paul the sparky
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    I'd have thought a man of your calibre would have a decent camera, Noface.
  • Nope, just the old phone camera. I borrowed a decent one once and tried to learn how to use it but it just drove me nuts.
  • Paul the sparky
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    Ah wait, that's much better, must have been a forum thing. Not bad at all for a first bash.
  • Nice! The stuff I want to send you probably won't arrive until after Christmas, hope that's ok!
  • Of course it is, it took me so long to paint these that it'll be after Christmas before I can get time to have another go.

    Great fun though, after a few attempts my head's full of ideas and a better understanding of techniques people talk about in tutorials. Just need to practice for mad skills.
  • Looking good, @Noface ! Welcome to mini painting! I get the same wash when I'm painting, my mind ends up racing and I end up with a bunch ideas for things I want to try next before I've even finished the thing im currently painting!
    "Let me tell you, when yung Rouj had his Senna and Mansell Scalextric, Frank was the goddamn Professor X of F1."
  • Building these fucking things takes forever when you're as cackhanded as I am. Bloody magmadroth.
  • Nina
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    @Tempy do you still have that video uploaded that you made about painting? Think it was for a job interview initially ?

    Loving all the work in here, I've started building Gunpla again a couple weeks ago and that's a lot of fun as well so far. 

    Really wish I could afford this one though:
    153_3552_o_1dog369g914ph1d61gur13d1bt723_480x480.jpg?v=1576364062
  • I do still have it yeah, but it was  specific tutorial for a specific technique!

    Dread to ask how much that EVA 01 costs, please tell!
  • Nina
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    Ah I see, still like to watch it though! Might not be something I need right now, but watching people paint different things in different ways is always interesting. And who knows, now I know your little soldiers and monsters need to be snapped together as well, and they do have robot designs, I might one day walk into the games workshop that's supposedly pretty close by here.

    EVA 01 is $51,99 excl tax, so it's not a crazy amount, and in a life where I would be able to work I'd buy it without thinking. There's a really cool store in Little Tokyo that sells gunpla, and has a lot of them on display, there's an EVA as well but so far B hasn't taken the hint of me spending in front of that for as long as possible.
    It's such an amazing design, and the colour scheme is awesome too. And just look at how posable that thing looks to be:
    o_1doijv7v81oof1i02h51cgcm637.jpg
  • Oh god, $50ish! I might send you a message one day... looks like an insane kit.

    GW do a lot of pushfit stuff these days - usually under the name of Easy To Build - it's not the same as making gunpla, but it's nice to know that stuff exists for people who just want to bash some stuff together.
  • Nina
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    O wait, I'm assuming the 2020 3 means it won't be out till March (i knew it wasn't out yet) but that's around the time B gets taxes back which is usually quite a bit because I can't work. So he probably won't notice if there's an EVA between the Gundams.

    The one with the base will be more expensive, but I think the one without looks better anyway.

    And I'm not gonna look into the easy to build series! I always thought GW was just a single mold piece, so not much movement etc going on. That's one thing I really like about the RG Gunpla models, you can pose them really well (as long as nothing falls off).


    I will be ordering some paint later today to try on my Gundams, it's gonna be really hard not to order every colour that looks good. What's the paint you use for your monsters? Acrylic based? I wanted to go for enamel but the shop I want to order from doesn't have those.
  • Chomping at the bit to get on with some painting and modelling but my lack of free time is killing me at the moment.

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