Do Boardgames Dream of Miniature Porn?
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Send messageI second Tempy's advice to buy one squad and a hero/hq unit for each side you've got.
I think if you've got the DI box then maybe go for a heavier unit, Blightlords and the Blightspawn as Tempy says and I'm not sure if they're 100% equal power but maybe something like a unit of Primaris Aggressors and a Primaris Librarian for the marines would be a good shout.
Since I'm in the hobby thread, I painted a couple of minis to use as cultists the other day for anyone who hasn't seen them on twitter already.
"Let me tell you, when yung Rouj had his Senna and Mansell Scalextric, Frank was the goddamn Professor X of F1." -
Thanks for the recommendation both, seems like a plan. No rush on any posting Temps I'm painting at a glacial pace.
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Tempy, you absolute legend!
Sorry it's taken so long. There was a mystery package a couple of weeks ago for Mr N.F. I thought they must have lived here before us and was going to return it to the post office, luckily I'm not that organised. My wife opened it today and we were both very confused for a while. -
Aha!
No worries, I really should have dropped you a PM but it slipped my mind. Annoyingly I found the blight hauler’s base when cleaning up, i’ll try and get that to you soon -
Thank you again, it was a brilliant surprise and put a smile on my whole family's faces.
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Wow... warhammer has changed a lot since I last built them! they almost look like snap builds now? I think I last built and painted them in 2000? Maybe a bit earlier, I remember being impressed with the amazing new space marines where you could glue them into way more various poses etc. rather than standing straight forward. Good times.
Edit: also have lurked here a while and the paint jobs you guys do are INSANE, proper quality work. -
Yeah GW kits run a gamut now from very simple push fit stuff that builds without glue, to more complex stuff that is still quite monopose, to slightly more modular stuff. They definitely prefer detail and static posing to posability, which is fine by me. The stuff in the latest command edition box (which I got as an early birthday present) is nuts, absolutely wizardry.
Looks like i am painting Space Marines now though.
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Yeah I did a bit of a search around and found some really cool sets, tempted but I already have a gunpla backlog now (despite only finding out about it and buying my first kit less than 2 months ago...)
Holy crap though, the tone and detail you’re able to put into such tiny figures is really impressive. -
Finished my Command Edition which was an early birthday present from Ev. Has been fun taking a week off from thinking about anything stress related, just as my meds seem to have hit peak efficiency and actually feel like they are working. Actually feeling like I can tackle real world things now!
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And it looks like you got a whole army now so you can do it!Tempy wrote:Actually feeling like I can tackle real world things now!
As always, it looks great.
I might try and start on my late birthday present from B, it's the Anubis model. Really curious how that'll be as it's not from Bandai, hope the quality is good.
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Closeup on one of them T800 ripoffs please, I'm trying to work out what you did for the metallic greeny navy bits there. -
Army looks amazing Tempy. Glad to hear about the meds too.
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I like the new primaris bikes, despite them being completely impractical.
I really, really need to get some painting done. I've done nothing since.... March? Not good enough. -
Looking so good.
I bought the Budget box after being inspired by Tempy's glorious soldiers. Trying to decide what colours to do them.
Was thinking purple with a cream trim. Hmm. -
Brooks wrote:Closeup on one of them T800 ripoffs please, I'm trying to work out what you did for the metallic greeny navy bits there.
Sure thing, scary villains on the way
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That orange/yellow blade against the highlighted copper and blue is gorgeous. Incredible as usual.
Nina wrote:I might try and start on my late birthday present from B, it's the Anubis model. Really curious how that'll be as it's not from Bandai, hope the quality is good.
I now have quite a backlog building up so have stopped spending so much, but let me know how it is!
Finished the RG Sazabi a couple of weeks ago, and midway through my first MG (the simple Jesta). Might go to something a bit simpler next, maybe one of the HGs...
How long does it usually take you to do a kit? I find I'm spending at least a week of evenings (up to 3 or so hours each night) on an RG or simple MG... -
That sounds about right. I've never really counted, sometimes it can take me a couple weeks just to find enough time to build.cosmicjellybean wrote:How long does it usually take you to do a kit? I find I'm spending at least a week of evenings (up to 3 or so hours each night) on an RG or simple MG...
I've done 3 MG's in Amsterdam, pretty sure those took me at least a weekend of building a lot. I've done 3 RG's, 2 HG's and an SD here, the last one was really quick, but all the others took multiple days.
Still need to figure out the best way to coat / panel line and decal them. So each one will have more hours worked on in the future.
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Oh man I was looking at top coats recently... need to look into that at some point. Seems to make a big difference.
I don't do a whole decal sheet, just the one's I like usually, but you could spend all day doing that! I found the 'pour type' Gundam markers are my fave way to panel line, Tamiya stuff put me off for the smell/ABS melting side effects...
Would love to see pictures at some point! Especially once you've done some of the Anubis. -
I have the Tamiya accent panel line stuff, from what I understand I need to go gloss coat > panel line > waterslide decals > final top coat.cosmicjellybean wrote:Oh man I was looking at top coats recently... need to look into that at some point. Seems to make a big difference.
I don't do a whole decal sheet, just the one's I like usually, but you could spend all day doing that! I found the 'pour type' Gundam markers are my fave way to panel line, Tamiya stuff put me off for the smell/ABS melting side effects...
I'm just not sure if I should disassemble the RG's into chunks or not, their skeleton is from softer plastic and I don't want to coat joints into place.
Should probably start with Justice's backpack thing.
@Tempy I'm pretty sure I've done some of the MG's in a day, but I know in lose my patience towards the end. Found it works better for me to space it out and give it all the same amount of attention. It's the same when I've done one leg and then start on the other, because I think I know what to do I start making stupid errors.
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One thing which is really really obvious for pin washing when you've actually done it but annoying as fuck until you do is...
Don't use acrylic wash I.e. Nuln Oil.
Just don't.
Get yourself the cheapest black or dark brown artists oil paint you can find and thin it down a massive amount with turpentine or white spirit.
It keeps the pigment density really well but flows incredibly easily into the cracks etc... because of the reduced surface tension. Then if you over egg a area a clean brush with a little turps on can pull the extra wash away and take it back to spotlessly clean. Something I just can't do with Nuln oil.
It will also stay 'live' for much longer and you can tinker by adding and taking away for as long as you want.Live= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire -
In fact any shaded areas like oil spills or rusty marks etc... Just use oil paints.
It's an idea to squeeze a little of the paint onto a paper towel and letting it sit for 20mins before applying it to the kit as the oil will leach out of the paint into the towel. Shortening the drying time a bit.
Long drying time is good because you can fiddle and change your mind without having to rush but you don't want to wait days.Live= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire -
All the rusty marks and rain drips etc... On this bonnet area are just done with bog standard oils dabbed on, then refine and drag the excess away with a clean brush with various amounts of turps on it.
No fancy airbrush techniques or anything needed.
Live= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire -
I just use washes cos I am a lazy boy who doesn't have time to learn new things.
I've always wanted to do the Oil Wash stuff, but i'd need to invest in it and money is at a premium ATM. One day, when I do that Heresy army. -
£3.00 cheapo set of oils from the works. Will last you forever. You use tiny amounts.
https://www.theworks.co.uk/p/oil-paint/oil-colours---set-of-12/5052089215757.html
And a bottle of turps substitue. £1.60.
https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-turpentine-substitute-750ml/p/2698540
For both techniques it works better with a satin gloss down before applying.
For streaks and runs just dab a little dot where you want it to start then clean your brush and dip it in the turps. Get rid of the excess turps, like if you were drybrushing metal, and then blend the dot into a streak. If you fuck it up, get more turps in the brush and just wipe it all away and start again.
For pin wash, just get the black oil and thin a tiny amount of it down until it's a very thin black liquid and there's your supper low viscosity pin wash. Dab it in a recess and be amazed as it shoots down the recess. If you satin gloss or gloss the kit before applying the pin wash then you can actually just slather it on and wipe it back with a cotton bud dipped in turps.
The best thing about it is it's so forgiving, any fuckups can be erased and start again.Live= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire -
This video covers both.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pNcUJ0BACO4&t=10sLive= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire -
Btw. Not saying ITS LESS THAN A FIVER DOOD.
Just saying you really don't need branded oils.
I got some 35 year old kids set of oils off a friend for my truck thing.Live= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire -
Nina wrote:I have the Tamiya accent panel line stuff, from what I understand I need to go gloss coat > panel line > waterslide decals > final top coat.
I'm just not sure if I should disassemble the RG's into chunks or not, their skeleton is from softer plastic and I don't want to coat joints into place.
Should probably start with Justice's backpack thing.
@Tempy I'm pretty sure I've done some of the MG's in a day, but I know in lose my patience towards the end. Found it works better for me to space it out and give it all the same amount of attention. It's the same when I've done one leg and then start on the other, because I think I know what to do I start making stupid errors.
A day?! It takes me a whole night to make a single leg... i think in all it’s like 20 hours for the big RGs or an MG just building.
I think the issue is I have really cheap side cutters (like £6 on amazon) and I cut the runner, then after I cut the furthest for the gate, then I use a scalpel to trim it closer till I sand it the rest of the way... it usually looks good (if I don’t gouge the plastic that is) as I have to make sure the nub is completely gone. I also do this for every single piece, even the stuff you never see.
I mean I enjoy taking my time and it’s a de-stress thing more than anything, but I do wonder if some nicer nippers I can use much closer to the piece might help. Also the scalpel blade and sanding sticks take a complete beating. -
I bought a pair of the Tamiya precise sprue cutters last year. They save a lot of time.
Geeky as fuck but I don't care.Live= sgt pantyfire PSN= pantyfire
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