I've removed everything except a keyboard, HDMI and power cable. Edit- well the RAM is in still, but no graphics card.
Before I did that the BIOS did some sort of restore to itself, now I'm getting the BIOS screen for a fraction of a second, a screen that looks like something to do with BIOS, then restarts and we repeat forever.
After a fair amount of fucking around, I've got back in... only to have the same problem I did before this entirely broke.
Black screen except for the taskbar, which is flashing every second. Can't select anything, or even press windows key. CTRL+ALT+DEL brings up that screen fine, and can select anything on there.
This potentially was the cause of my recent troubles where I thought my RAM or graphics card was dying. I've just been able to load Destiny 2, whilst also playing a YouTube video on another screen no less, and it didn't crash the second the game got to orbit.
I'll keep an eye on things, but this is excellent news so far.
Ah yeah that seems like a long time. If you keep on the same install for 2+ years you can reasonably expect to have a lot of problems. Shouldn't be that way but it kinda is. Quite a lot of people don't realise this and end up spending a lot of time and effort trying to fix it when it would be easier overall to just take half a day out to clean install everything.
If anyone happens to be selling an older Intel CPU and mobo hit me up, trying to sort out an upgrade for my Dad. Looking for 4690/4790 K/non-K, Z87/Z97 or other compatible boards. Need a PCI slot for an old sound card.
Actually personally I would switch the cooler, I like big air coolers for their reliability and quietness but if you want to stick to liquid then I would for a 280mm cooler instead, if the case supports it and wherever you're getting the system from sells those.
Looking at the case compatibility specs it seems that it supports a 240 up top and a 280/360 in front. The problem with front mounted rads is that it will negatively affect cool airflow to the GPU, so the 240 up top might be a better option, but in that situation I would opt for a big air cooler like a Noctua NH-D15s or Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4.
The cost will be same or cheaper than a 240mm liquid cooler, the cooling performance/noise will be as good if not better, and the overall airflow setup will be simpler and probably better for the GPU than if you would have gone for a 280 or 360 front rad.
Cheers Gurt. Quiet is important, the GPU won't be stressed too much really so not overly concerned there but if its better all round then may as well switch it out.
@Muzzy
Yeah if I had stuck freelancing it would be excessive but the jobs I'm doing need it as we have a crazy amount of lights in the scene most of which need to be unique. Its all cinema rooms so no daylight and one of our big products are custom LED walls, not for displaying movies just for fancy lighting effects. Imagine that led reactive surround some TV have but a whole room of LED walls, it can do that. Lots of lights equals lots of RAM.
A further note about the performance differences between air/liquid:
Liquid coolers tend to be better than air at short burst workloads, like all core loads that last for less than a minute. This is because it takes some time for the thermal mass of the liquid to saturate.
Air coolers will reach steady state sooner, so for longer rendering or steady gaming workloads there won't be such a great difference between an air and a liquid cooler, assuming the dissipative surface area is similar.
Either way is good tbh, I just like the long term reliability of air.
Thanks again Gurt.
Yeah its a tricky one with workload times. Obviously I will be rendering for hours on end at times but I also test render very frequently as part of my work flow so that relatively quick speed can be useful.
@DS
Tempting. Haha. Tbh my boss was suprised at what I was getting for the price. I think he is jealous.
That little lot has been quoted at £2690+VAT.
Its great working for techy people rather than fashion luvvies.