Let's make a gaming PC
  • My motherboard has possibly just gone.

    Probably not worth replacing it is it?
  • Depends.

    How confident are you that it's the mobo?
  • I've removed everything except a keyboard, HDMI and power cable. Edit- well the RAM is in still, but no graphics card.

    Before I did that the BIOS did some sort of restore to itself, now I'm getting the BIOS screen for a fraction of a second, a screen that looks like something to do with BIOS, then restarts and we repeat forever.
  • Is there a BIOS reset button on that mobo? If not you should be able to remove the battery to reset it, look it up anyway.
  • After a fair amount of fucking around, I've got back in... only to have the same problem I did before this entirely broke.

    Black screen except for the taskbar, which is flashing every second. Can't select anything, or even press windows key. CTRL+ALT+DEL brings up that screen fine, and can select anything on there.
  • Restarted it, and boot loop bollocks again. Currently recovering the main BIOS from the backup BIOS again.
  • Hmm. Sounds like the Windows install has fucked up? If you chuck Linux on a USB stick does it boot fine?
  • After endless fucking about that went nowhere, I've done a clean install and so far it seems to be working again.
  • Yeah usually a clean Windows install is the quickest and best way to solve major PC problems like 70% of the time.
  • This potentially was the cause of my recent troubles where I thought my RAM or graphics card was dying. I've just been able to load Destiny 2, whilst also playing a YouTube video on another screen no less, and it didn't crash the second the game got to orbit.

    I'll keep an eye on things, but this is excellent news so far.
  • How long was it since your last clean install of Windows?
  • It wasn't my computer originally, so I couldn't tell you. I've been using it for 18 months, god knows how long before then.
  • Ah yeah that seems like a long time. If you keep on the same install for 2+ years you can reasonably expect to have a lot of problems. Shouldn't be that way but it kinda is. Quite a lot of people don't realise this and end up spending a lot of time and effort trying to fix it when it would be easier overall to just take half a day out to clean install everything.
  • Has anyone purchased from box.co.uk before?

    I am looking for a 17+ inch laptop with a separate left and right click mouse button, all I can seem to find is gaming laptops!

    I've found this https://www.box.co.uk/30031892-Medion-Erazer-Defender-P15-AMD-Ryzen-5-1_3820498.html does it look decent for the money?

    I didn't really want a gaming laptop but yeah.
  • I bought a few parts from them a year or two ago and they were as good as anyone else I’ve ever bought from.
  • That's as good an accolade for me, cheers!
  • If anyone happens to be selling an older Intel CPU and mobo hit me up, trying to sort out an upgrade for my Dad. Looking for 4690/4790 K/non-K, Z87/Z97 or other compatible boards. Need a PCI slot for an old sound card.
  • Got my quote for my new work PC.

    Case : IPW-R9 Case (Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact – Black TG) - Corsair® RM650 - (Gold Eff.) 650W – Fully Modular PSU
    Mainboard : ASUS® PRIME X570-PRO Mainboard (4x DDR-4 Slots / 3x PCI-E 4.0 / USB 3.0, 3.2 / M.2, SATA3)
    Graphics Card(s) : NVIDIA® GeForce™ RTX 3060 - 12GB GDDR6 (PCI-E 4.0) - (3584 GPU Cores)
    Hard Drive (1) : Samsung® 980 PRO Series - 1TB - M.2 NVMe (PCIe 4.0) - SSD [7000MB/s (Read) / 5000MB/s (Write)]
    Hard Drive (2) : Seagate "EXOS" 4TB - SATA3 Enterprise Grade Hard Drive - 256MB Cache
    Optical Drive(s) : No Optical Drive
    Sound Card : Realtek® S1220A 8-Channel High Definition Audio Codec featuring Crystal Sound 3
    Network Card(s) : Intel® I211-AT Gigabit LAN
    Operating System(s) : Microsoft Windows 10 Professional Edition (64-bit)
    CPU(s) : AMD® Ryzen™ 9 5950X (16x 3.4GHz -> 4.9GHz) 72MB Cache – 105W TDP
    Memory : 128GB "System Validated / Major Branded" DDR-4 - 3200MHz (PC4-25600)
    Mouse / Keyboard : None
    Warranty Terms : 3 Year(s) Return to Base (RTB) (Inc. Parts and Labour) – or “Swap Out” Hardware Replacement
    Miscellaneous Upgrades : Corsair® H100i RGB PRO XT (240mm - AIO) Digital Water Cooler
  • Must be good if it gets the Gurt thumbs up right off the bat.
  • Yeah no particular complaints there.

    Actually personally I would switch the cooler, I like big air coolers for their reliability and quietness but if you want to stick to liquid then I would for a 280mm cooler instead, if the case supports it and wherever you're getting the system from sells those.
  • Cheers. I'll ask tomorrow.
  • acemuzzy
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    Is that 128gb of ram? Tidy.
  • Looking at the case compatibility specs it seems that it supports a 240 up top and a 280/360 in front. The problem with front mounted rads is that it will negatively affect cool airflow to the GPU, so the 240 up top might be a better option, but in that situation I would opt for a big air cooler like a Noctua NH-D15s or Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4.

    The cost will be same or cheaper than a 240mm liquid cooler, the cooling performance/noise will be as good if not better, and the overall airflow setup will be simpler and probably better for the GPU than if you would have gone for a 280 or 360 front rad.
  • Cheers Gurt. Quiet is important, the GPU won't be stressed too much really so not overly concerned there but if its better all round then may as well switch it out.

    @Muzzy
    Yeah if I had stuck freelancing it would be excessive but the jobs I'm doing need it as we have a crazy amount of lights in the scene most of which need to be unique. Its all cinema rooms so no daylight and one of our big products are custom LED walls, not for displaying movies just for fancy lighting effects. Imagine that led reactive surround some TV have but a whole room of LED walls, it can do that. Lots of lights equals lots of RAM.
  • A further note about the performance differences between air/liquid:

    Liquid coolers tend to be better than air at short burst workloads, like all core loads that last for less than a minute. This is because it takes some time for the thermal mass of the liquid to saturate.

    Air coolers will reach steady state sooner, so for longer rendering or steady gaming workloads there won't be such a great difference between an air and a liquid cooler, assuming the dissipative surface area is similar.

    Either way is good tbh, I just like the long term reliability of air.
  • Dark Soldier
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    You should defo just get a 3090 if work are paying for it. Play Slay the Spire in 48k.
  • Thanks again Gurt.
    Yeah its a tricky one with workload times. Obviously I will be rendering for hours on end at times but I also test render very frequently as part of my work flow so that relatively quick speed can be useful.


    @DS
    Tempting. Haha. Tbh my boss was suprised at what I was getting for the price. I think he is jealous.
    That little lot has been quoted at £2690+VAT.

    Its great working for techy people rather than fashion luvvies.
  • My new rig just arrived!
    One of the sales guys hand delivered it as he was already on the road delivering a few to Playground games, which is neat.

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