Lovely. The only downside is that I'd like a bit more to rest my right palm on. I've a caddy in mind for it. (I kept it small to avoid flex, because the aluminium mounting panel had to be ~1 mm.)

Buttons are vertical keypad:

+ ent
9 6 3 del
8 5 2 ins

The one larger button is a JB-20, to make it easier to find with my little finger. Throws, tags, whatever. Logical, no?

Right, what's E building in there...

My first ever stick was a Fighting Stick 2, with a JLF and eight Seimitsu buttons. Now with @RockIsSponge, who took this photo (thumbnail links):



Then I had a PS2 RAP Orange from Japan for a while. Eight Sanwa Dark Hai buttons (in the days before they offered black) with two Seimitsu 24s:



After that I forget the purchase order, but let's continue with some Powerful Game, PS3. Cheap plastic, but the palm rest area's great. Good case design. MS Fanta with medium pad, though I never found time to fit the Crown buttons. They're in a bag in the box.



Korean box with Crown buttons and a modified E-Stik. Much love for the stick, to which all I did was cut down its upper spacer to lower the spring's tension. It's by far the fastest to return to neutral of all the sticks I've tried. If I were to build a case for it - and I'm tempted, I'd flush mount it and file down the built-in dust washer. Korean layout's not really my cup of tea.



Tekken 6 RAP, 360. Ten Sanwa buttons. This one has the benefit of separate stick wires, rather than a 5-wire harness. I originally intended to crimp some QDs on for an LS-56 (which would've been a straight fit), but I never did.



Combat King (PS2, PS3, PC) and Foe Hammer. Comedy King because it has QDs and made a good case for trying out different sticks. It's ended up with ten Seimitsu buttons and a bat-topped LS-40. The Foe has 24 mm Seimitsu skeletons and a mini-topped JLF with a mini dust washer.



Rear artwork:



My first prototype on the left, second on the right. Initially with a hybrid button layout to get a feel for what I like*, and then a Namco (left four buttons) SEGA (right two) in 24 flavour. Mini-topped JLF undermounted via S mount. I didn't get around to cutting anything out on the first one.



*Turns out, I really like the old RAP layout - if it has to be 30s rather than 24s - because I can press the kick buttons with my second knuckles. (The outer six on that RAP Orange.) I also get on fine with offset rows (Vewlix) with two conditions: 24 mm buttons and a raised HK. Otherwise the HK's too far left for my second knuckle - and I prefer keeping my palm planted for co-ordination and comfort, and too low for a ring-finger hop.

And I like having plenty of case - as on my later revision - for my wrist to lie on.

RDC's stick, all consoles. Seimitsu JB-35 buttons, and a JLF S with reduced travel via a taped actuator; Saia switches; an LS-33 spring; an extended shaft and a heatshrink cover. Mini dust washer.



My new stick. The pink top's a placeholder until I heatshrink it. JLF S with an extended shaft, Saia switches and another 33 spring. Button layout was arrived at via my fingers and a blank sheet of A4. The bottom row seem to follow a milder Neo-Geo arc, while the top four are symmetrical. My thumb can easily press the first three of the bottom row, leaving the fourth to my ring finger.

Function over form here: the wood was free (the top's actually two pieces joined together) and the varnish was £2. It doesn't look that bad in real life.



Mine and R's:



Apart from those two and the E-Stik itself, I'd be happy to sell the others for good prices, save for the Korean box and my two experiments, which I'd forward on with their buttons for postage money.

Tempy wrote:

do you make them on demand?

Not with my workmanship! Thanks all the same. I suppose it's taken off as a hobby more than it would've done if I'd had a great connection to actually play the games over the past couple of years.

Yeah that's not happening, but imagine the Saulabi's top 180-degree flipped, covered with slightly grainy leather, thin enough to see the outline of the padding below a cluster of black 24mm buttons laid out as per Hitboxes.

I am still tinkering with it, because it's still as not as input-fumble-proof as I require. Also I need to redrill a hole and plug the old one.

Very slightly tempted. Very cute.



Back to my pad mod, our man's dealing mini boards. Nicely done.

Compact, aye. PS1. The shrunken dims call for a lightened mini-top recipe, I realise. And it's too dinky even then, but such a wee looker.

Brave Tekken Zaibatsu/SRK and ask noodalls if he can get you some frames. He has a programmable two-player Arduino-powered deck.

On the QT for comp play if you then try RDC for a PIC to establish delays and/or holds. Auto-diagonals are a possibility to ponder. R's away for a short while at present.

3S double-quarter requirements.

See if there are any limits to rule out overlaps and such.

Yeah.

You can flash a PIC to do plenty, but you're in the dark there without frame-hold conditions.

Something like that seems like you wouldn't actually need specific framedata? I mean you could just trial and error it on this PIC 'til it sticks surely.

@Brooks

If you haven't been in touch yet, I'll give RDC a few details and let him know you're coming. If indeed you are.

Always happy to help on this business. R's away with photovoltaics this weekend, but I've sent word ahead.

He knows me as boring old Phil.

PS3 Saulabi with a Fanta stick and a bag of yet-to-be-soldered Crown buttons. £20. (All inc. delivery.)



Box and Crown buttons. No board, and I'm keeping that stick. £10.



Sanwa HRAP for the 360. Pretty much unused. £60.



Combat King for the PS2/PS3/PC. Seimitsu parts. £10.

Blue custom with a JLF on quiet Groovy/Zippy switches. Seimitsu buttons. No board. £50.



Project boxes. One or both for £10. No boards. I think I've 13 Seimitsu buttons, and one of them has a JLF.

Board-wise, I have two DS2s (for both consoles with adaptors) and a PS3 Cthulhu. The less tidy of the DS2s I'd give away, but no guarantees it'll run perfectly, while the other two are £10 each. The Cthulhu needs wires and QDs; no soldering there, but plenty of crimping.

The reason it's not helping you Brooks is you've made a pointless contraption. Use an arcade stick for better results.

I guess what you need to ask yourself is, in another 5 years can you really see the hitbox yielding better execution.

Nick wrote:

I guess what you need to ask yourself is, in another 5 years can you really see the hitbox yielding better execution.

If I can resolve this diagonals thing, I strongly suspect yes.