Liveinadive wrote:

Anyone know much about scaffold? Early days but Im floating ideas about for redecorating if/when I sort a flat out. Really like the idea of sacking off the traditional fitted kitchen and making one out of scaffold.

No, but i have long thought about building a kitchen out of box steel. Much like the table I made earlier in this thread it wouldn't cost much to weld up into shelves and units then I'd like a polished concrete top. I swear kitchens are a proper rip off.

The issue then is figuring out how to to transition to shelves and work top.

It seems possible though, just needs some planning.
As you say, fitted kitchen cabinets are quite expensive and will never be as durable as pipe work and boards.

Drawers, essential space but hard to build into this kind of system. Really would depend on the space you're building in, you might get away with a couple of small utility units and have the bulk as more of a bold statement.

Liveinadive wrote:

As you say, fitted kitchen cabinets are quite expensive and will never be as durable as pipe work and boards.

Quoted for devils advocacy to say that as long as you don't have the cabinets put in by a gang of dribbling morons (caveat - this is not out of the bounds of reasonable possibility given most kitchen suppliers) the carcasses are more than capable of doing a 20+ year stint, only needing the fronts changing if they become hideously unfashionable.

Alright, devils advocacy aside, scaffolding and other kitchen setups are waaaaaaay cooler. Noface the polished concrete worktop idea sounds awesome.

@Roujin
You are probably right there. Although if you get a leak it can totally fuck a cabinet.

While we're calling the escape hotline, how do you programme an i-pac? Pc recognises it and registers inputs but won't push programme to the board, says something about drivers.

Nina wrote:

my ps3 Hori Fightstick 3 doesn't really work well with that. Can I replace the PCB that's in the fightstick with one that's inside a Logitech PC controller I have and don't use

Probably, but that's a complex project. The PCB in your FS3 is soldered to the buttons, so you'd have to desolder that first. Do you have a soldering iron? If you don't and you'd like one, HAKKO make really good irons, but they are quite expensive. Anything with a temperature control that isn't really cheap should be fine. (I've a crummy old Weller with no heat control, and it really shows in my bodged work! It's okay for temporary fixes, but that's it.)

Anyway, the Logitech PCB probably won't have a schematic available for it online (the only one on Slagcoin is this Precision), so you'd have to work out its common lines and trace its inputs (signal lines) to locate the right places to solder to (a multimeter's continuity mode's the quickest way).

A common-ground board allows you to solder to just one point to provide ground for all signals (via daisy-chaining to all microswitches). All boards have one ground (provided by a wire in the cable), but some have multiple lines on the PCB. The DS3, for example, has one common line for the d-pad, L1 and L2, and three common lines in all. It's more soldering work. So you see it's not really correct to call a board CG, because they are all, but it's become shorthand in the modding community to call boards with a single common line common-ground boards.

(Your control problem sounds like DirectInput, by the way. But you'd need to talk to a programmer with some knowledge of its API. Chump, mayber? Your 360 controller uses the newer XInput.)

That's a lot of tinkering for a budget stick, though, and you could build your own for not too much money. You'd need:

* Wire strippers (I expect you've a pair for your bike? The automatic ones are so much better than the simple ones, but they cost a lot more.)
* Wires (from any old Ethernet or phone cable.)
* 2.8-mm/0.110" (two for each button) and 4.8-mm/0.187" (eight for the stick) female crimp terminals (if you don't solder to your microswitches.)
* Case (wood offcuts are cheap, or maybe an old piece of furniture you don't need.)
* PCB
* Control parts

Control parts don't have to be Sanwa. If you're not that fussy, there are several cheaper alternatives. A few sticks come with larger, 6.3-mm/0.250" switch tabs, and most buttons (not Sanwa or Seimitsu) with full-sized switches are 4.8s. As for the PCB, the I-Pac VE is $35 from Ultimarc. I-Pacs emulate a USB keyboard, so compatibility's very high. This one's cheap. For postage, you might find that Shadaloo offer the best prices. ArcadeShop are very good in my experience.

I have absolutely no clue if there's a quality difference in PCB's for PC's

Not really much of a difference in quality (manufacturing quality, yes; performance quality, not so much), but some boards are definitely easier to repurpose for arcade controls.

Is it maybe better to buy an extra pc 360 controller?

Not if it's new, because you could buy a dedicated PCB for the same money and avoid having to hack the 360 board.

maybe it's better to get new buttons as well when replacing the PCB? At first I just want to remake the fightstick into a PC one, in stead of ps3. If all that works I might make a new case (I have access to a CNC machine, just need more time to think about design) and put proper buttons into it. Don't want to spend too much money on it at first, since I haven't used it a lot on ps3 since I couldn't get stable online games.

I'd say it's better to get new buttons in your situation, because the ones in the FS3 aren't that great. In other words, if you spend any money at all, it's best to also buy new parts. That said, there's no reason why you couldn't desolder your stick's board and replace it with a low-cost alternative. The only hurdle is that you need to be able to solder to use old boards.

Wow, thanks a lot Escape!

I'll try the drivers first, searched around myself but everything I came across seemed to suggest it's not possible.

Otherwise I'll build a new one, B and 2 friends got their own company, part of that is making LED panels for gigs, so I guess I will have access to the tools I need, one of them build a cnc machine so he can make his own guitars. 

(This is what the panels look like:
)

Would have been nice if I could have re-used some of the plastic and inner pieces of stuff that's just lying here, but I guess not. Not that I'm particularly fond of the Hori. 
Building a new one's more fun anyway. Only need to think of a nice case then, best scenario would be to make something that I can close off, so I can take it with me easily to the USA if we move.

@Roujin

O SHIT WADDUP

Nice stick man, classy. Stick and button specs plox, although I see you got that kbd ready bat top thar.

Oh, this is the PS4 Makestick Pro:



IST make custom tops (with basically everything else copied), hence the keystick up there.

I have a feeling that I've asked this question before but have just scanned through the thread and can't find it, but how much would it be for the buttons, stick and electrical gubbins (I can worry about the box separately) necessary to build a stick that I could use on my Bone and Pi?

Cheers. I do have an off-the-shelf number, also bought off Tempy as it happens, just wondering about something a bit sexier.

The case is the part I'm least concerned about. My dad used to make a living as a carpenter, I'm sure we could knock up something nice in a day.