How to Start a Pension in the Face of Economic Armaggedon
  • My pot has made about 20% over the last 6 months or so; very pleased with that return. I've got mine with Hargreaves and after I put a small lump sum in, I now pay in £50 per month into the USB S7P 500 & Vanguard US Equity Index (both accumulators). I also dabbled a little with some shares and I bought some shares in Gregg's which have made 110% profit!!  I've also bought some in Virgin Galactic, but alas, they are currently down 42%.  Hoping the "take off" again sometime soon!

    Be careful with Virgin Galactic at the moment as that one if definitely in meme stock territory. i.e. Comes up on Reddit pump discussions a bit.

    Someone told me about this site a while back...

    https://swaggystocks.com/dashboard/wallstreetbets/ticker-sentiment

    Certainly not sound financial advice or anything, but it gives a high level view on hot Reddit stocks/crypto.

    p.s. Well done on Greggs!
  • cheers for the check on iweb SG!
    "Like i said, context is missing."
    http://ssgg.uk
  • TheBoyRoberts
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    Yeh, certainly not going to be putting any more cash into Virgin Galactic. 

    Hopefully I’ll get back what I’ve put in over the next few months and then I’ll pull the plug.
  • I went from $14 down on SPIR to up by $11 in the space of a phone call today.

    The stock market eh?
  • GooberTheHat
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    I'd steer clear of an direct stock purchasing based on Reddit posts. It seems like gambling to me rather than investing.
  • Yeah fuck that, it's against thread rules. Goober knows.
    "Plus he wore shorts like a total cunt" - Bob
  • As this thread is vaguely about money I have a question.

    I bought something with my credit card but then returned it, but the £650 or thereabouts was on my statement for this month, and my bank still want me to pay it despite the refund already being cleared?

    If I pay it, what will happen to this money that will be sat on my credit card will I have to spend it or will it credit back to me?

    My current account is Natwest and I have a Natwest credit card.

    Is it worth paying the minimum payment for this month or will that affect my credit score?
  • GooberTheHat
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    It'll be credited to your card, so you will end up with a positive balance on the card. Not necessarily an issue as you could just spend the credit when you would otherwise use a debit card, but I appreciate that is an extra faff that you might not want to deal with. You could try ringing the card issuer and explain the situation and ask them to return the credit to you current account.
  • GooberTheHat
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    Paying the minimum payment doesn't damage your credit score. It shows you are a profitable lendee. You could pay the balance less for the outstanding refund (as long as that is more than the minimum) and the you'll be on 0 balance when the refund is actioned.
  • You can usually ask the credit card issuer for a credit refund to your nominated bank account.
  • i'm confused why the refund wouldn't just end up on the credit card and thus clear your charge?
    or has it just fell on the statement date such that you've been given the bill for £650 and it has now been refunded? in which case you shouldn't need to pay anything if it's already been cleared
    "Like i said, context is missing."
    http://ssgg.uk
  • I want in on this SG, where do i start?
    He could've just said they came from another planet but seems keen to convince people with his bullshit pseudoscience that he knows stuff. I wouldn't trust him with my lunch. - SG
  • GooberTheHat
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    From the op.
  • mk64 wrote:
    I want in on this SG, where do i start?

    I imagine you'll be looking at putting in monthly, so should be looking at using Fidelity.
  • so is my first thing to do to sign up to a DIY platform?
    He could've just said they came from another planet but seems keen to convince people with his bullshit pseudoscience that he knows stuff. I wouldn't trust him with my lunch. - SG
  • GooberTheHat
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    Fidelity is what I use.
  • GooberTheHat
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    There is a stocks and shares thread somewhere but I thought I'd keep it simple by starting a new thread. This post will basically involve:

    1. Buying a tracker fund and wrapping it in an ISA.
    2. Not touching it except to periodically top it up with more spare cash.
    3. Not touching it some more.
    4. Definitely not touching it.

    This requires absolutely no knowledge of the markets, except to know that they exist. A tracker fund is great because it is diversified and cheap. It's cheap because your money is automatically invested in say, the top 250 companies in a given stock exchange, and will buy and sell as some companies enter the top 250 and some leave. You are not paying for a fund manager that pretends he knows stuff nobody else does. They are all, by and large, shit. If they were any good (and honest) they would tell you to invest in a tracker fund anyway. It means you can invest money and just leave it. It doesn't matter if BA goes bust because as it's falling from grace the tracker will automatically sell it once it falls outside the remit of the top 100 or 250 or whichever tracker fund you buy. You'll just invest in whatever company rises up to take it's place and the tracker will do this automatically. 

    It also diversifies risk because your money is not invested in any one sector (like airlines). It is vital that you don't try and time the markets unless you have access to a supercomputer that might buy and sell the same stock hundreds of times an hour. The only timing you're going to attempt is to invest when the markets shit themselves, which is now. This will give you a great start even if the markets plummet still further. In time they'll recover - they always do, and you'll not have to fret that you've bought at a high price. 

    Most of the money you make will not come from buying cheap, it'll come from company profits. It's outrageous you can reap the profits by doing no personal work whatsoever but you can and here we are. It's important to put your cash into an accumulation fund. All funds have this as an option and it means the dividends you make (profits from companies you part own) are automatically invested back into the fund rather than paid directly into your bank account, so you get more of a snowball effect from the reinvestment.

    Now it's important you put this in an ISA wrapper. You basically use a stocks and shares ISA and I'll post some links. The ISA is important because exponentials go a bit daft and the money you'll be making towards the end would otherwise involve a large tax bill when you withdraw. For example, if your money doubles every 5 yrs or so then somebody who has invested for 45 yrs will have twice as much cash as someone who has invested for 40. As you approach pension age you'll be surprised how much it's grown and the tax bills would be huge unless it's prorected in an ISA. Any profits in that ISA, however large, are exempt from the same tax rules you's otherwise be paying. As long as it grows inside the ISA you'll be fine. The government are allowing this because they're naturally worried about the cost of pensions in 30 yrs and they want people to be able to support themselves.

    I'm not going to advise on specific trackers except to say buy cheap ones. You're going to have to read up a bit don't be scared, it's very easy (see list 1-4 above). Now you'll need to buy the fund from a fund supermarket. There is a general supermarket fee and then an extra fee for the tracker you buy. I will advise on the supermarket fund and I'd probably go for Cavendish. They're very cheap. From this you'll then have to choose a tracker from the funds they sell. 

    Read this.

    https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/savings/stocks-shares-isas/

    I notice they also recommend Cavendish because they're cheap. They will offer various types of trackers funds so pick one you fancy based on brief Google searches. It may well take a couple of weeks to get the ISA sorted but don't fret if the markets rally a little, the important thing is you didn't buy them 3 months ago. 

    Here's why timing the markets isn't as important as you think:

    https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/diyinvesting/article-8101459/The-FTSE-100-15-20-years-invest-long-term.html

    Mainly, do not put money in you'll need back later, even if the wife gets kidnapped. I'm not kidding - only invest cash you can spare. The other thing is to top it up every now and again. You can periodically save as you normally would but just put that cash into the tracker. This could be every month or whatever you're comfortable with.

    Then you sit back and try and forget about it. This is hard at first because you'll no doubt be checking your fund everday but will get easier as the months and years go by. You'll suddenly find you listen to the financial news a bit more and you'll slowly pick things up until you're at a level that you can confidently re-examine your investment in a few years and maybe decide to swap it into another tracker (it should stay within the ISA but be careful - once it's out it's out and there is a limit to how much you can invest into an ISA in any given year).

    Mainly, don't be afraid. It's a very simple thing to do despite all the jargon.

    Here's Warren Buffett to tell you some things and the point starts about a minute in (an Index fund = tracker fund).



    Here be some tracker funds:

    https://www.moneyobserver.com/our-analysis/most-popular-tracker-funds-and-etfs-2019

    American ones are great but not all will be available depending on what fund supermarket you go with (Cavendish etc).

  • GooberTheHat
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    But essentially, do the above.
  • goods, i read the OP but i'm still a bit confused :(
    He could've just said they came from another planet but seems keen to convince people with his bullshit pseudoscience that he knows stuff. I wouldn't trust him with my lunch. - SG
  • He says buy a cheap tracker via an online platform that offers ISAs. Just be aware for instance that 25% of the S&P 500 is in like 6 companies.. apple, microsoft, facebook, amazon, alphabet and tesla. The other 75% is spread across the remaining 494 stocks.
  • It took me a while to figure out how to actually buy such a thing. It’s not at all straightforward for a first-timer. Once it’s done though, you can just sit back and leave it alone.

    I bought from Cavendish, who were a broker using Fidelity as the actual investor. Cavendish’s investment but has been sold to Fidelity, so for the same thing you would now go straight to Fidelity. This makes it a lot simpler - partly because Fidelity are better at explaining things for n00bs.

    This is helpful:
    https://www.fidelity.co.uk/stocks-and-shares-isa/ease/

    Though it leaves you having to decide which tracker fund you want to invest in. The important bit is making sure it’s one that ‘accumulates’ - ie. reinvests your profits. That’s what should lead to exponential growth over a long enough period.
  • How does paying into a fund within an ISA out of your own post-tax finances compare to having the same fund in a pension wrapper and paying in that way (thus being able to deduct any contributions from your tax bill)?

    I'm guessing this might come down to which tax band you are in.
  • GooberTheHat
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    The pension will be taxable at payment, so they'll get you either way won't they?
  • Not necessarily. If you're a higher rate tax payer, you get pension contribution relief (tax top up) at your marginal rate of 40%. Contribute £100 of post tax pay to your pension, get £140 in your pot.

    Then when you draw down (get "paid" from your pension in whichever way you choose), it's likely you'll be taxed at the lower rate (unless you've saved and are withdrawing more than £50K per year, which, well done you!) of 20%, so there are significant benefits to being richer. Again.

    Also worth remembering you can withdraw up to 25% of your pot, at age 55, completely tax free - which represents a significant tax saving, and can be used to eg: pay off remaining mortgage etc.

    So in general, paying post-tax income into a pension is far more tax efficient than almost anything else, including paying into an ISA (the earnings you make on pension investments are also tax free like an ISA). The key drawback is lack of freedom. With an ISA, even invested in equity etc, you can generally get the cash (no tax to pay) within days at most. With a pension, you can't withdraw anything (without punitive tax to pay) until 55 at the earliest.
  • Good explanation, thanks Funk.
  • If I were advising in this thread (I am not), I would say to invest in both SIPP (I like pensionbee, cheap and easy) and ISA tax-free wrappers and make sure your funds are invested in low cost trackers, and only purely disposable (ie: betting) money invested in individual companies, riskier investment and equities markets, etc.
  • Funkstain wrote:
    Also worth remembering you can withdraw up to 25% of your pot, at age 55, completely tax free - which represents a significant tax saving, and can be used to eg: pay off remaining mortgage etc.

    I hadn't realised that the 25% could be taken that early. Will have to give that some thought and weigh up pension performance against mortgage rates at the time.

    Funkstain wrote:
    Then when you draw down (get "paid" from your pension in whichever way you choose), it's likely you'll be taxed at the lower rate (unless you've saved and are withdrawing more than £50K per year, which, well done you!) of 20%, so there are significant benefits to being richer. Again.

    Yeah. I guess if your lifestyle allows it, it will be possible to pay 0% tax on your pension drawdown if you just top up the state pension up to the 20% threshold. No NI to pay of course.
  • Funkstain wrote:
    If I were advising in this thread (I am not), I would say to invest in both SIPP (I like pensionbee, cheap and easy) and ISA tax-free wrappers and make sure your funds are invested in low cost trackers, and only purely disposable (ie: betting) money invested in individual companies, riskier investment and equities markets, etc.

    My pension platform (Quilter) allows me to move my money around. Don't think it's classed as a SIPP though. Is there anything I might be missing out on? Any other advantages to a SIPP?
  • If it’s A pension wrapper, and you can move investment money around as you see fit, and it’s administrated and managed by you and the contributions are made by you (not your employer or more likely a company contracted by your employer to manage employee pensions), then it’s a Self Invested Pension Plan. You can ask employers to direct your contributions to a SIPP but I’d say it’s unlikely they’d agree.

    There are no huge advantages other than choice: you get to choose the cheapest platform, the cheapest funds, the best user interface, the best tools with a SIPP. Managed pensions may not be so flexible, will usually charge higher management fees, and platform fees, and can be terribly user unhelpful.

    I’d say if you’re being charged any more than 0.75% per year in total it’s a rip off
  • Unless you’re investing deliberately in more expensive products, like carbon-free funds, shariah funds, etc

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