Syph’ll Fix It - The Bear and Badger

Syph79

Back to Item #3 and the PS5 with the dodgy HMDI port that someone took a lighter to. So we’ve got the port off and have prepped the pads on the port and the ground legs.

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With that done, we’re ready for the new port. heating the board up again (480 degrees at 50% airflow), we can pop it in place. The leaded solder means less heat/time is needed to get to port in place.

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While I’m here, I may as well tidy the Liquid Metal. There’s a dry spot, so let’s get that sorted. It’s now evenly spread.

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All back together (after testing. Always test first!) and we’re back to good as new. Extra bonus is I picked up a free copy of Hogwarts Legacy in the process!

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Item #3 a success then. I now just need to revisit that bloody Switch that kicked this all off.

The Daddy

You ever fixed any AirPods Syph? Mine went through the washing machine in their case, assuming they’re now landfill but not against having a little tinker with them before binning.

Questor

Obviously I am not Syph or experienced in repair in any way, but from watching repair channels, it seems like many Apple products are designed to be REALLY fucking hard to even get open, let alone repair

Diluted Dante

IIRC, you have to destroy the casing on Airpods to get inside them.

Moot_Geeza

Try putting them in a cup of rice on top of a radiator.

Moot_Geeza

And then blowing your nose.

Syph79

The Daddy wrote:

You ever fixed any AirPods Syph? Mine went through the washing machine in their case, assuming they’re now landfill but not against having a little tinker with them before binning.

No experience here, but if they’re done for and you don’t mind if they get more done for, then I’m game.

To echo the other comments, you’re basically cracking them open and hoping the crack is along the join. I’ve seen others using a padded vice to apply even pressure across the unit.

Drop me a PM if you want to send them over.

Wookienopants

Hi Syph, might need your help.
I've got an Xbox series x controller and the RB button has stopped working properly. Sometimes it responds with a really hard press but it's unreliable.

I've replaced the LB/RB buttons a few times now and it doesn't seem to do the job anymore, I think it's the actual switch itself that is failing to register the press.
I have found the switches online for about £3. Question is, how easy is it to fix? If I were to send it to you is this something you might help with?

Syph79

Morning mate. Couple of possible explanations. The first is the switch has come away from the board, the second is there’s something interfering with it and it needs a clean. In both cases, I can help or at least try to. Just send it over

Wookienopants

Cheers mate, I'll get on it today after my fishing trip

Syph79

Didn’t take any pictures or give it an item number, but I replaced a drifting stick on my Dualsense yesterday and it’s worked a charm. Pretty tough to get the old one off without melting the plastic components, but once that’s done it’s fairly simple.

afgavinstan

MS returned my blue Elite 2 Core controller today. Before sending it, they instructed me to remove all sticks/flaps etc from it, but have sent me one with sticks and d-pad on it, so, if you find yourself needing them for a repair syph, let us know and I'll fire them on to you for spares.

Syph79

Very kind mate. I think I have a few spares myself, but it's good to know! Glad you've got it sorted.

Wookienopants

Is it true the Elites have some reliability issues? I'm considering the Elite Core model with my Amazon vouchers from work but don't wanna risk it if they are likely to break in 6 months

yourfavouriteuncle

Wookienopants wrote:

Is it true the Elites have some reliability issues? I'm considering the Elite Core model with my Amazon vouchers from work but don't wanna risk it if they are likely to break in 6 months

They do, specifically the LB and RB buttons. Which i think was your initial problem. There’s a new version coming early-ish next year too.

Wookienopants

In that case what I might do is get 2 normal Xbox wireless controllers so I can play local MP

yourfavouriteuncle

We ended up doing exactly that too. Took three pads to get to that decision, mind.

Syph79

Wookienopants wrote:

Is it true the Elites have some reliability issues? I'm considering the Elite Core model with my Amazon vouchers from work but don't wanna risk it if they are likely to break in 6 months

I have an elite I can do for (*adopts RE4 voice), a good price.

Blue Swirl

yourfavouriteuncle wrote:

We ended up doing exactly that too. Took three pads to get to that decision, mind.

I think I would have given up after the second expensive pad shat itself, maybe even the first, when the normal Xbox pad is pretty solid.

yourfavouriteuncle

Blue Swirl wrote:

yourfavouriteuncle wrote:

We ended up doing exactly that too. Took three pads to get to that decision, mind.

I think I would have given up after the second expensive pad shat itself, maybe even the first, when the normal Xbox pad is pretty solid.

TBF one was a replacement from MS.

Blue Swirl

Ah, ok.

Paul the sparky

I've got a mystery for you here, Syph. Steam Deck not Switch, but here goes.

My left thumb stick started not registering up/down inputs without any reason as far as I know. It's not been dropped or anything, haven't been going wild with the bugger. There's nothing mechanically wrong with it, doesn't feel loose or too stiff. I checked the dead zone utility and it's not drifting at all, but it refuses to register those up/down inputs.

I looked online before reaching for the ifixit set, and come across a thumb stick calibration tool hidden away in the Konsole commands when in desktop mode (why isn't it in the general controller options?!).

Fixed it, you beauty. On to Divinity Original Sin 2, it's working like a charm untill I go to switch characters. Fucked again, but only the down input seems effected. I go back into the desktop, Konsole command, recalibrate etc again. Working again until I press LT which is the trigger (lol) for the bug apparently.

So I grab my gear and open her up thinking it's got to be done sort of mechanical fault despite the trigger and thumb stick feeling fine. Screws out, shell popped open and there's fuck all to be seen. There's nothing even close to the left trigger to be getting in the way.

So I'm back to thinking it's a software issue and I'm in the input test screen with the back still off the deck so I can see what's going on. LT is registering as down on the left thumb stick for some reason. Can't understand it. And once LT has been used, it won't register the left thumb stick as pressing down any more.

I'm currently in the menus trying to figure out how the fuck this could be happening and if there's a setting I can use to stop it. I don't fancy doing a full reset of the Deck as is suggested online, or sending it off to Valve as I can see it coming back in exactly the same condition. What a ball ache

Minnesänger

That's weird as fuck.

Luckily, Syph will be on the case.

Paul the sparky

I could understand it if I was pissing about setting up custom inputs and it was only in one game. But this just popped up from nowhere and it's across the board, in the menus etc.

Putting the deck in standby resets it, but again just pressing LT starts it again. Bizarre

Syph79

Hmmmmm.

Sounds like software and that’s a full install in reality. Ballache, but likely the only way to know for sure.

Not familiar with the inner workings of the Deck, as I didn’t take mine apart, but if they’re anything like other handhelds, the components will be connected to the mainboard via some small ribbon cables, which can become loose and misbehave.

Only other Deck consideration is that the sticks have touch sensitive elements from memory, which need to be soldered in to the controller unit itself. Could those have come loose so that it’s not registering when your thumb is on the sticks at certain angles/directions?

If I was trying to fix that and I had the back off already, I’d reseat the various ribbon cables around the unit. If that doesn’t make a difference, I’d try a clean install.

Let me know how you get on.

Paul the sparky

Yeah, all separate little modules and all ribbons are fine. I didn't remove and refit because I feel like there's a greater chance of me creating a new problem than solving this one. It's very strange. There's a recalibrate triggers command in the Konsole terminal too, did that but still no joy.

If I have to reinstall the Deck OS I keep my games etc on the SSD right? I'm hoping so

MyNameIsKrisG

Minnesänger wrote:

That's weird as fuck. Luckily, Syph will be on the case.

I don't think the case will be at fault.

Wookienopants

If he's on the case how can he open it?

Unlikely

Pretty sure it'll open with the weight of a full grown man on top of it.

Syph79

Paul the sparky wrote:

Yeah, all separate little modules and all ribbons are fine. I didn't remove and refit because I feel like there's a greater chance of me creating a new problem than solving this one. It's very strange. There's a recalibrate triggers command in the Konsole terminal too, did that but still no joy.

If I have to reinstall the Deck OS I keep my games etc on the SSD right? I'm hoping so

Maybe move your games to an SD card and then pop that out ahead of a factory reset.

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