Nah, it's across everything even outside of games and on the desktop mode. Absolutely mad bug which I can't get my head around.

There's an option to keep your games and reinstall the Deck OS in a recovery menu, I'm going to try that when I can muster the energy. If that doesn't work, full wipe and reinstall, if that doesn't work it's off to Valve

And here in Aus we STILL can't buy a Deck

Not sure how it’s possible, but I’ve just bought a faulty Nitro Deck with stick drift. Given that the whole point of them is that they’re drift free, it’ll be interesting to see what’s causing the fault when it arrives.

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

Syph79 wrote:

Not sure how it’s possible, but I’ve just bought a faulty Nitro Deck with stick drift. Given that the whole point of them is that they’re drift free, it’ll be interesting to see what’s causing the fault when it arrives.

After testing, I don’t *think * it’s drift. I think the left stick had been pulled out slightly. They’re supposed to be the hall sensing jobbies, so drift shouldn’t be a thing. Anyway it was £18 and I love it.

I did not. I’ll resend my number, I may have made an error.

I can but try. Modern kindles aren’t really supposed to be repaired (my fixing journey actually started on the old keyboard kindle, but I stopped when they started gluing them up rather than screwing), but I have a heat gun now and I should be able to sort it for you. PM me and I’ll give you my address.

I’d personally just remove the micro SD and pop that in the laptop, assuming it has a reader. If not, pick up a SD to USB-C dongle for a couple of quid on Amazon. The retro consoles tend to me made using Linux, so I really don’t know what will happen if you try and connect them to a windows PC.

I’ve got an old (no keyboard, but old) Kindle that won’t take a charge or switch on. I was keeping it to try and get the (high seas acquired) books off it one day … but maybe I should give in and bin it.

Syph79 wrote:

I’d personally just remove the micro SD and pop that in the laptop, assuming it has a reader. If not, pick up a SD to USB-C dongle for a couple of quid on Amazon. The retro consoles tend to me made using Linux, so I really don’t know what will happen if you try and connect them to a windows PC.

Fair shout. Her laptop is a chromebook so, um, lol let's see!

Here’s something you may find interesting. I’ve fixed a few PS5’s recently with HDMI port issues. The soldering on those things is criminal - just falling off the board and I’m yet to get one working again reliably without replacing the whole damned thing. Anyway, that’s not the purpose of this particular post.

The latest PS5 was heavily caked in dust and it had begun the process of overheating. I normally tidy up the Liquid Metal, but today was the first time I’d seen oxidation as heavy as this:



Cleaning up the APU and the damage was clearer to see:



I’ve managed to clean it up (mostly) and applied new Liquid Metal, but that’s a cautionary tale for anyone concerned about the effects of dust buildup.

So in exciting news, I tried a different cable, and my kindle charged fine!

I'm starting to think maybe the Kindle isn't the problem.

He'll have to strip muzzy down and give him a good clean to see what's wrong first.

Blue Swirl wrote:

Syph79 wrote:

I normally tidy up the Liquid Metal, but today was the first time I’d seen oxidation as heavy as this.

Jesus. How does that even happen? Damp house?

It’s purely down to dust inside the console. The hotter the Liquid Metal gets, the more it’s likely to bond to the surface. Better airflow inside would have prevented this.

If anyone wants my advice on this subject, despite personally having had my PS5’s all vertical, I’m now going team horizontal to keep the metal pooled centrally and cleaning out my consoles on the regular.